The Estancia

On Thursday night Alberto, Nina, and I drove out to La Estancia to meet Sonia, Alan’s cousin. The estancia covers about 500 acres of flatlands spotted with eucalyptus trees and pines for windbreaks. The sierra de la ventana mountain range can be seen to the northwest with several rolling hills in-between. Sonia’s estancia was originally part of a larger farm owned by her grandfather. Argentine law dictates that the children receive equal amounts of their parent’s property during an inheritance so the land has been divided over generations. Sonia inherited the farmhouse from her father and now grows soybeans, corn, wheat, and sorghum as winter feed for cattle. During summer, the wet season, cattle free range on pasture. Sonia’s sister Helga runs an estancia as well and provided the lamb for the Asado or BBQ. We drove to the estancia while it was dark out and were unable to see anything but the headlights on the road ahead. The moon wasn’t up when we arrived and the Milky Way was clearly visible overhead, no light pollution to speak of. Sonia fed us well and we headed to bed.

 

The next morning slept in until 9:30.  After a breakfast of home made wheat bread, marmalade, dulce de leche, cream fresh, membrillo (jam like made from quince) and sweet potato compote, I headed outside to where Alberto had already started the Asado. This is a quintessential part of Argentine life. A house is not a home unless it has a built in parrilla (BBQ). In this case the parrilla is a walk in and can easily accommodate an entire lamb. Around the time the lamb was smelling amazing the Family arrived bringing cabbage salad, Waldorf Salad, green salad, potato salad, and wine to round out the meal. After applause for Alberto, the Asador, Sonia gave me permission to eat instead of answering questions. While we ate we listened to Horacio explain the ways in which President Kirchner is worse than Ex president Bush by a factor of 10.  Relative to current tax disputes Kirnchner is credited with stating she will bring the farmers to their knees, in turn prompting banners at the farms stating, “We’re standing ready to fight”.  In the photo of the lamb over fire you may be able to spot where the kidneys are still attached; this is the prized cut and goes to the Asador. After the plates were cleared Alberto took me out to the silo’s to show me how the grain is stored and moved to trucks for shipping. I learned how the bailer works to roll sorghum into barrels for winter feed and learned how the windmills are used to pump water from 75 meters below ground.

We headed back to the farmhouse where all the cousins took turns riding horses until the horses were too tired to run. Then to the house for Matte, cake, brownies, and pudding. We ended the day with a game of soccer, the sun setting over the fields and bats crossing over our heads.  Everyone said their goodbyes and the families headed home.

 

On Saturday Alberto and I drove to Monte Hermoso to view the new apartment structure that he, his brother, and several business partners are construction right on the beach. After touring more of the town and the family’s beach houses we climbed to the top of the 450 tall lighthouse and took pictures of our faces through the lenses. The staircase spiraled up a 4’ diameter tube making it a dizzying experience.

 

We drive back to the Farm and have lunch, Sonia has spent the morning driving to Bahia Blanca to pick up a broken part on the Bailer and pick up Emila. We eat, relax, and then drive to Sierra de la Ventana and hike up cerro de amor to watch the sun set and feel the wind pick up. Walk in town to window shop at all the crafts and touristy stuff.  On the drive home we saw 5 burrowing owls fly across the road while we drank matte and snacked on brownies and crackers.

 

On Sunday Sonia took me along to meet the guys with new Harvester who are working on the Soy fields. The plants are few, small, and dry and little yield is expected. The harvester makes a pass through the soy and after the container is checked to confirm the yield justifies the cost to harvest they keep it rolling. Sonia and I drive out to move cows to a different field and spot a bushy tailed fox in the fields, then a Molito, kind of like an armadillo but only eats plants and cant see very well. He runs right up to me for a photo.

 

Then over to the old farmhouse of Fritz, sold his farm to Sonia at age 75 and moved into City for better care. House was built in 1936 and has tiled floors with intricate floral designs. Walls are painted with great detail and symmetry and look like wallpaper. The house has several large bedrooms; one of witch is kept for a local Pastor, who once a month would come out to the house to perform a prayer service in the parlor.  We turn on the windmill to fill the water reservoir. Sonia will turn it off when see makes her afternoon rounds.

 

Back to the farm and Sonia and the girls start to prepare lunch. Weinersnichel, (breaded steaks fried in pan), salad with hardboiled eggs, mashed potatoes, fresh baked apple tort, rice pudding, matte.  We headed back to Alberto’s house in Bahia for the night since they have work and school in the morning. We said goodbyes the next morning and I headed back to Buenos Aires.